Tuesday 23 October 2012

Shots Around Kerala




Outside the hotel room in Thekkady



 

 
View outside the windows on the bus from Thekkady to Kottayam


 
In Periyar wildlife sancutary

 
On the ferry towards Alleppey
 


Sunset in Trivandrum

 
The Kurinji flower which only blooms every 12 years.  I was lucky enough to catch one (supposedly).


Wednesday 3 October 2012

Mumbai/Hungry Cats at Home






                                                                     Street Artist from Mumbai

 
                                                         
                             Delicious Samosa sandwich from a street vendor                              
 

 
 
                                                      

Tuesday 2 October 2012

Behind Closed Doors





            Here I sit at the Dubai International airport with my purse tucked carefully behind my legs (see I've learned lessons) and my first cup of Starbucks in 7 months.  Dubai might be the worst airport for me to be in right now considering how I have the layover of all layovers (18 hours before my next flight, and on my way home I'll have 23 hours!), not to mention the unfortunate fact that I've recently been suffering from consumerism-withdrawal.  And by that I mean my heart has been waiting to get to Tokyo so I can once again flit around the big, bright city tossing the Japanese government my hard earned cash in return for lots of shiny things.  Yes I realize I'm not fulfilling my duties as an Oberlin grad to shun all that represents the evil consumerist American but I can't help it.  Tokyo was like a playground and for that brief window of time I was there I had  zero financial worries seeing how the Japanese government was so kindly paying me to "study" in their country.  While India has been a different type of playground I have definitely been looking forward to going back to my former stomping grounds.  Unfortunately the Dubai airport has me shaking like a crack addict.  It's as if someone crammed all of Ginza into an airport and it doesn't help that all the salespeople smile at you innocently, reconciling your worries away by reassuring you it's all duty free! 

               Which is how I ended up sitting at Starbucks with a new pair of headphones.  Woops.  I rationalized the decision with the fact that eventually I was going to have to replace my stolen headphones so why not go for it when there's no tax?  However it has been a much greater battle in keeping myself away from the MAC counter.  I try to remind myself that in about 30 hours or so I'll be able to shop to my heart's content, with my lovely prize of mineralized eye shadow not far behind.  So far it's worked the first 5 hours, let's see how I hold up after the next 13.  This might be difficult as every time I lift up my right arm I can smell the Fendi perfume a saleslady sprayed (more like doused really) on me.  Damn it smells good...

               But this isn't a blog about my newly discovered materialistic ways.  It's a blog about India!  And I'll be the first to admit I haven't been very good about keeping it updated.  Especially since that last entry left us on such a sour note I figured what better time than now!  Part of the reason I haven't said much is because I've been trying to decide what I should talk about next; most of my stories have calmed down from stalkers and leeches to minor bumps in the road.  But then, after I thought about it, I realized those probably aren't minor bumps so much as I've just stopped batting an eye at the craziness surrounding me sometimes. 

               Take for instance the day that Jamuna, the lady who works at the International Studies Center right across from my room, walked in on me topless one day.  Or I might have been naked....I can't recall at this point but you get the idea, I was "indecently" exposed.  Now I have to start this off by saying that I had a feeling this might happen.  Why you might ask?  Well I'm sure most people are aware of this but just in case it's never occurred to you before, India is hot.  Really hot.  Like fry an egg on the sidewalk hot.  And while my consumerism may be showing more than my fellow Obies, I can say without hesitation that I am right up there with the kids who religiously take craps at the Environmental Studies Center when it comes to conservation (although maybe not quite as diligent as those who skip showers for whole weeks).  I try my best not to turn the air conditioner they have just last year put into my room and when I break down (which happens quite often) I keep it in a certain temperature range.  And I don't mind doing this because there are many other ways in keeping yourself cool.

               Such as walking around your room in just your underwear.  Personally I prefer cooling off this way over an air conditioner, mostly because sitting around in the clothes you've been sweating in all day isn't very appealing to me.  But anyways I think we are all getting the picture, when Jazmin goes back to her room at the end of the day (or really at any point) there's a good chance she might not be dressed for company.  Some may say this is foolish as I live on a school campus.  And I would tell those people that maybe they should try sitting in a sauna for an hour without taking anything off. 

               Now the second reason I thought this might happen is because Jamuna, as well as pretty much anyone who comes knocking on my door, have a tendency to ignore what subtle meaning might lay behind a closed door.  That is to say they don't give up if you don't answer after their first knock.  In fact they don't even give you a chance to answer.  It usually goes like this:

               *Knock* "Jazmiiiiiin?"

               - 1 Second Pause -

               *door rattles* "Jazmiiiiin"?

               Now, unless I've locked the door than after that first 'Jazmin', the door is opening.  Even when I have locked it there have been a few times where whoever was on the other side was desperate enough that they shimmied the lock open.  One girl simply opened my door, poked her head in and shouted my name.  So much for privacy.                

               During each of those previous times I would laugh and shake my head thinking how one of these days they are going to learn the hard way that you should give whoever's on the other side of that door time to pull themselves together.  I knew that one day they were going to see something they would regret.  I just hoped that maybe it would happen to someone else. 

               And so that day came.  That particular afternoon I had been running around campus, sweating like a pig, and waiting for the moment when I could run into my room, turn on the AC and strip.  5:00 rolled around and I figured it was as good a time to go to the gym, meaning that I would have to go to my room and change.  In my giddy haste to finally be rid of my oppressingly hot churidar (seriously how do the girls in Madurai do it?) I didn't lock my door.  I should have known better but in my mind all of this would only take me a few seconds, not long enough for someone to come barreling in.  Not to mention there was that small stubborn side of me that felt if someone was foolish enough to open a closed door without knocking well then they deserved to be red in the face for a while.  Course I didn't think it would actually happen.

               But there I was, sitting on my bed scrolling down through iTunes looking for just that right song to get me ready for the gym when I heard that all too familiar voice screeching my name.

               "Jazmiiiiiiiin?" 

               There was barely a millisecond between hearing Jamuna's voice right outside my door and then seeing her, bright sari and all, staring at me while I clutched at my chest.  For a minute we just kind of stared at each other with this confusion and terror; it was as if her opening that door on me being practically naked caused a very important shift in our relationship but neither one of us knew what should happen next.  Which of course meant we both started squawking at each other like birds.

               "I'm sorry, sorry, sorry Jazmin!"

               "Sorry Jamuna!"  Why was I apologizing?  I had no idea.  I might have just scarred a lovely Indian woman with my clear lack of shame, seemed appropriate at the time.  Of course I had done nothing wrong besides forgetting to lock my door but still. 

               She left quickly shutting the door, with perhaps more force than necessary, and I just kind of sat on my bed for a minute absorbing what just happened.  Then I just started laughing.  I had been saying it all along and it finally happened, a part of me felt a little justified.  Like, 'Ha!  You want to barge into my room like that well then you pay the price!'  But mostly I just thought it was hilarious and thankfully so did Jamuna. 
I quickly met her outside and we just kind of laughed at each other, she gave me a hug and shakes me a little.  It took her a minute to get her bearings straight, although I don't blame her, and then she suddenly remembered why she had barged into my room in the first place.  Turns out she had been searching for a knife and figured that I would definitely have one (and of course she also figured I would be clothed but that just goes to show that you should never assume anything).  


               Another day in Madurai and another lesson learned.  If you ever decide to get naked in your own room, you better lock that door and put a chair against it cause you never know when a determined young lady in a sari might try to kick down your door (that also has happened but that's a different story).  Although I guess I should say the lesson is that I shouldn't assume that just because I'm in my room I can do as I please.  Unfortunately I'm probably not going to change my habit of getting out of my churidar as soon as I get into my room, mostly because I'm stubborn but also because a closed door is still (and in my mind will always be) an indicator that you should wait for permission before entering.   
   

Monday 1 October 2012

No Title, Just Mess


              
               There is a pond in the deep corners of the forest in my hometown.  It's crystal clear water has beckoned many a traveler to this edge of the world, yet none of my family will go near it.  This pond is very old you see and it's made up of all the earth's secrets.

               Everything that once was and is can be found in this pond.  Ebola learned to kill as it rested on these rocks, waiting for its next prey to come along.  Trees drank from this water until they were no longer trees but a mix of flesh, blood, and terrible knowledge.  Every disease that ever scourged the earth was born here, including the deadliest one of them all - man. 

               But everything has its beauty and this pond knows that better than anyone else.  Magnificent flowers, with colors so rich they blind kings, blossom in rings around here.   But touch them and all the years of your life will fly off your skin onto its eager petals, for beauty has its price.

               My people dare not come here.  We have learned first what this pond is and what it can do.  This pond is life in all its many treacherous forms and yet there are those who believe they can challenge it. 

               They come in droves with their swords and their vain thoughts hoping to be the first to bend nature to their will.  Their corpses now rot with magnificent purpose; birds and maggots alike feast on this buffet of egos.  Mother Nature leads her children one by one past these decaying carcasses of men; She slips whispers of their weaknesses into waiting ears.  For this pond is also death.

               Now I wait.  I sit by the cool waters, dipping my toes in with carefree abandon as though we are old friends.  I hear the mysteries of the world as they are sung by the leaves.  I feel the raindrops wash away years off my skin and I welcome it with open arms. 

               For even life and death needs their keeper.  I will sit here and learn all I can about this pond, as old as the earth, and it will drink from my youth so as to never forget the cruel jokes it plays on us.  In exchange for this my people are allowed to live freely without worry or regret that their mother will turn on them. 
               The only way we know death is how we know life - as a dear friend who takes us to the next journey.


p.s. Another ghost encounter, I woke up this morning and my kitchen door was closed and locked.  I never lock it, not to mention it's one of those flimsy locks you find on bathroom stalls, sort of a fake deadbolt.  The point is they are hard to move (also because no one uses them they tend to rust) and I've never even thought about locking my kitchen.  But as I went to go get breakfast started there my door was, locked.  Go figure.